The Galapagos Archipielago

Imagine yourself walking amongst prehistoric-looking marine iguanas, albatross nesting colonies, lumbering giant tortoises, baby sea turtles hatching or flamingos.

Swim and snorkel with playful sea lions, speedy penguins, sea turtles and a myriad of spectacularly colorful fish.

These magical islands have captured the hearts and minds of travelers for centuries as their diverse and stunning natural beauty leaves visitors with a sense of awe.

Its  trifecta of volcanoes, currents, and   location on the equator, just 600 miles from Ecuador’s mainland has made it the ideal home for some of the most unique animal species that have evolved exclusively on these islands.

Anywhere you look, there’s amazing animals to be seen. So here’s the lowdown on what to look for in the air, land, and sea.

Bird species in the Galapagos

The Galapagos Penguin: This cute little cousin of its frigid relatives is one of the only species of tropical penguins. Thanks to the cold-water currents, this penguin is able to live comfortably in the Galapagos.  If you’re snorkeling, you might even see these expert divers plunge into the water for fish.

The Great and Magnificent Frigatebirds:  This tropical bird is native to the Galapagos Islands and is one of the larger birds on the islands. In an impressive display of courtship, male frigate birds will inflate their bright red throat pouches for females flying above. They are commonly seen in large groups, waiting for their mate to choose them.

Blue-footed boobies, Nazca boobies, Red-footed boobies, & Masked boobies: These peculiar birds are somewhat of a mascot for the Galapagos Islands, especially the blue-footed booby, appropriately named for its vibrant turquoise feet. The various species can be seen all around the Galapagos Islands, and they breed and nest year-round.

Flightless cormorants: This is probably one of the more interesting birds on the islands, and contributed to Darwin’s formulation of his Theory of Evolution.  It is the only species of cormorants in the world that is not able to fly.

Waved albatross: This bird proudly holds the title as the largest sea bird in the Galapagos Islands.  Despite several mating pairs on the closeby Pacific Isla de la Plata, the remaining 12,000 couples remain exclusively in the Galapagos.

Other birds of interest include: The Galapagos Dove, the Greater Flamingo, the Short-eared owl, the various Galapagos herons, the lava gull, and the Darwin’s finch.

Land animals of the Galapagos

Giant tortoises: These gentle giants give the archipelago its namesake. Spanish explorers saw their gargantuan shells and decided they looked like saddles, or “galapagos” in Spanish. There are several species of giant tortoises on the islands, but their limited number (approximately 15,000 remaining) makes them an endangered species. They can weigh over 500 pounds with a total height of nearly two meters (6ft). At their oldest, they can live for around 150 years.

Land iguanas: Unlike their spritely green relatives in mainland Ecuador, these giant lizards love to soak up the sun.  Look for their burrows along the nature trails, but don’t get too close, because males are known to be very territorial and aggressive.

Marine iguanas: There is perhaps no greater evidence of evolution than the marine iguanas, endemic only to the Galapagos Islands. Every major characteristic has been adapted their life in the Galapagos Islands.

Lava lizards: You’ll need a sharp eye to spot these tiny reptiles. They are populous on mostly all of the Galapagos Islands and vary accordingly. Sometimes, you will see a lava lizard in perfect symbiosis, sitting comfortably on the heads of the large marine iguanas.

California sea lions: These playful animals are a favorite of many visitors to the Galapagos Islands. There are large colonies on several islands that visitors frequent. They are rather fearless and can be seen twirling in the water right by boats or often lounging on the benches in the towns.

Marine life in the Galapagos

Tropical fish: While the marine ecosystems of the Galapagos don’t support the quantity of stunning reefs in places like Australia, there’s still countless species of colorful tropical fish that call these waters their home. Every island hosts its own variety of tropical fish, and your naturalist guide can tell you all about the most vibrant and interesting species you’ll see every day.

Reef sharks, Galapagos sharks, and hammerhead sharks: Sharks are a common sight in the Galapagos Islands. Depending on where you are snorkeling/ diving, you will probably encounter one of these harrowing creatures patrolling the shallows.

Whales & Dolphins: These sea-faring mammals are best spotted either from cruise ships or from the shore with a good pair of binoculars. The dolphins are relatively easy to see as they like to jump playfully out of the water, often coming very close to cruising yachts. Humpback whales are a more rare sight in the Galapagos, so if you’re hoping to see them, plan your trip for June or July when they frequent this part of the ocean.

Golden rays, eagle rays, sting rays, & manta rays: Keep your goggles clear as you snorkel or look out as you kayak, and you’ll probably see these graceful rays. They are usually seen traveling in large schools, but occasionally you will also see one peacefully gliding through the water on its own. And manta rays are the undisputed giants among the ray species in the Galapagos.

Green sea turtles: Sea turtles are a fascinating part of the Galapagos marine life ecosystems. They are the only turtles native to the Galapagos Islands and generally spend their entire lives at sea, other than when they come ashore to lay their eggs between January and June.

Mola mola: Known also as the ocean sunfish, this is one of the biggest fish in the ocean. It is a strange fish, commonly described as a giant floating head or a large blob. They are hard to spot, but lucky travelers will catch a glimpse of these mammoth creatures, which can weigh between 500-2,000+ pounds.

Penguins on the Equator

There’s only one place in the world where you can enjoy watching the adorable habits of a penguin in its natural habitat without having to deal with the bone-chilling temperatures where most penguins live – and that place is Ecuador.
The Galapagos Islands, less than 700 miles away from mainland Ecuador, are home to the rarest tropical species of penguins in the world, the Galapagos Penguin (Spheniscus mendiculus).

These equator-loving penguins are a descendent of the Humboldt penguin, found on the coasts of Chile and Peru. It is believed that the first group of them drifted safely onto the shores of the Galapagos Archipelago some four million years ago and began their first colonies then.

Meet the Galapagos Penguin

• Species Name: Spheniscus mendiculus
• Region: The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador, South America
• Height: 19″ (50cm)
• Weight: 5.5 lbs (2.5kg)
• Threats: Snakes, Crabs, Hawks, Owls, Domesticated Dogs and Cats, Fishing nets, Boats
• Nests: Crevices and fissures of old lava flows & dark caves

Currents and Nutrient-Rich Waters

The success of this tropical species of penguins in the Galapagos chain is largely due to the Humboldt Current, which jets cold from Antarctica up the western coast of South America. As it moves along the shoreline, it pushes the surface water offshore, causing upwelling from the deeper, nutrient rich waters that sustain life for the penguins’ diet of sardines, mullet, and other small fish and crustaceans.

Tropical Penguin Adaptations

Tropical penguins? Doesn’t sound possible, but it’s “kind of” true. The terrestrial weather and the latitude in the Galapagos are tropical, but the water, and where the water comes from isn’t. Galapagos Penguins feed on cool waters of nutrient rich upswells and have adapted and evolved to deal with a warmer climate.

Like most species of penguins, they are all black with the distinctive white torsos; however, unlike their 85-pound Antarctic cousins (the Emperor Penguins), the Galapagos species grows to only 20″ in height, with an adult male weight of about five pounds.

In order to live in such warm climates, these birds have made some very unique adaptations. To keep cool, the penguins try to stay in the dark crevices or hold their wings out to allow heat to escape quickly from their bodies as wind passes over them.

The coldwater Cromwell Current, flowing east across the Pacific Ocean, keeps the sea temperature of the Islands between 60 º and 80ºF (16º-27ºC), making it the perfect home for the penguins.

When and Where to See Galapagos Penguins

They are easy to find year-round on the western islands of Isabela and Fernandina, where the majority of their population lives. They nest along the rocky shores of these volcanic islands in the crevices and fissures (long, narrow cracks) of dried lava flows or in caves and are most active during the month of September.

Endangered Penguins and Conservation Efforts

Unfortunately, due to their small size and the significant number of threats that exist in the Galapagos Islands, their population has fallen to roughly 2,000 individuals (less than 1,000 breeding pairs), making them an endangered species. In addition to natural predators like hawks, snakes, and crabs, man-made hazards such as fishing nets and boats are reducing the population of this species.

Conservation efforts have helped to keep these penguins off the extinction list, so you can also play your part by admiring them from a distance. Make sure to bring a camera with a good lens to capture all the playfulness of these lovable animals while still allowing them plenty of space.

Humpback Whales in the Galapagos

When to come

No matter when you go to the Galapagos Islands, you are guaranteed to see some of the world’s most interesting animals. But if you are a whale watching enthusiast or simply want to see these majestic sea mammals gliding above and below the crystal clear Galapagos waters, then there’s only one time to visit: June-September.

During this time, humpback whales come to the equatorial waters to mate and breed. They start their migration towards this region from further south as early as March and begin to arrive in June. The highest concentration of whales in the Galapagos is during June, but you might be able to spot them in July, August, and September as well.

Whale watching

Your best chance to see them is on a cruise, since most of your time is spent on the water and large chunks of your trip will be spent actually navigating, increasing your chances to see them.

If you are planning a land-based trip, don’t worry – there are some companies that offer whale watching day tours from the major towns on the islands.

Where to see them

Spotting whales in the Galapagos Islands is a passion of patience. When they do come through these waters, you have to keep your eyes on the water’s surface and keep your camera at the ready for when they breach.

The best places to spot them are between Fernandina and Isabela Islands and occasionally around Espanola Island.

With Haugan Cruises, the best whale watching options are the Western Islands cruises, including:

Photography Tips:

• Use a camera with a good telephoto lens, preferably a DSLR, with telephoto lens interchangeable lenses
• Use your camera’s sports settings (if in sunlight) to capture movement and fire rapidly
• Use a tripod for stability on land.
• Practice. As the old adage goes, practice makes perfect!

The humpback whale

The humpback whales that frequent the Galapagos Islands are one of the most recognizable species of whales. They are known to grow as long as a standard school bus, between 48-63 feet, and weigh as much as 40 tons.

However, their goliath size is perhaps not their most notable feature. According to National Geographic, the humpback whale’s song can carry for miles underwater and serves as a system of communication between them.

When a mother gives birth, she will nurse her calf for a year, and during this time there’s a good chance whale-watchers can see the mother and child touching fins.

As mammals, depending on where they are and how developed they are, whales have to surface for air approximately every 3-30 minutes, according to scientists. This is your best chance to spot them. If you’re lucky, you might catch one of these gentle giants breaching the water in a powerful jump. Some speculate that there is a biological purpose in doing this, but since no concrete conclusions have yet been made, many believe they do this just for fun. You also might catch them playfully slapping the water with their fins.

Migration patterns

The humpback whales spend most of the year near the poles, where they can feed and build up their fat stores.

However, when it is time to mate, they head back up to the warm equatorial regions, where the sun-heated, nutrient-rich waters sustain their period of breeding.

Humpback whales have the longest migratory path of any mammal, according to the NOAA.

Status

Unfortunately, like too many other marine creatures, the humpback whale is on the endangered species list. The main threats are boats and fisheries, as whales frequently get caught in nets or simply crash into boats.

It’s also accepted that the noise of boat engines makes it more difficult for whales to communicate with each other, since their long, groaning songs are their primary means of communication. When loud engines send sound waves for miles, this could interfere with the whales’ songs, and therefore their ability to find a mate.

Galapagos Island Climate

The Galapagos Island are on the equador and the climate does not vary dramatically over the year. There is however, some variation driven maily by the ocean currents. There are two seasons: